If you’ve ever considered switching your RV to lithium batteries, you may have thought (as many people do) that it’s as simple as removing your old lead-acid dinosaurs and dropping in some great new lithium batteries. We wish it was (always) that easy, but there’s more to consider. Contact online >>
If you’ve ever considered switching your RV to lithium batteries, you may have thought (as many people do) that it’s as simple as removing your old lead-acid dinosaurs and dropping in some great new lithium batteries. We wish it was (always) that easy, but there’s more to consider.
While switching your RV to lithium batteries (Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFePO4 to be specific) is a fantastic upgrade, it can also require changing the settings on other components… or even replacing those components with new ones designed to work with lithium batteries.
In this post, we’re laying out all you need to know to make the switch from lead-acid batteries to lithium batteries to power your RV with the latest in battery technology.
If you’ve been using lead acid, AGM, or gel batteries in your RV and are considering switching to lithium batteries, you’re probably aware that there are many advantages to LiFePO4 batteries that make the switch worthwhile.
Lithium-ion (LiFePO4) batteries generally offer numerous advantages over typical lead-acid/AGM/gel cell RV house batteries. Following is a quick summary of how switching to RV lithium batteries can be beneficial:
Lithium-ion batteries have greater energy density (the amount of energy a battery stores, given the space and weight), so you get more energy for the same amount of space.
Fewer batteries are required to store the same amount of energy (or more). Since lead-acid batteries can only be drained to (at most) 50% of their capacity without harm, you may only need half as many lithium batteries for the same usable power. The same is true if your RV has a bank of 6V batteries. In this case, each pair of 6V batteries could be replaced with a single 12V lithium battery (more on this later).
Lead-acid batteries require maintenance (please see our post on how to maintain flooded lead-acid batteries) while LiFePO4 batteries are maintenance-free.
Lithium batteries have an extremely steady voltage curve across their charging/discharging profile. This means that as they’re drained, their voltage output stays steady… unlike lead-acid batteries where the output voltage drops fairly steadily as they’re drained.
Lithium batteries charge much faster because they accept a very high charge current, while also having less internal resistance to charging. In contrast, lead-acid batteries require a longer, slower charging cycle (with Bulk, Acceptance, and then Float phases) to reach 100% state of charge (fully recharged).
Lithium-ion batteries are far better able to sustain deep discharges without damage, compared with lead-acid batteries which can be damaged when discharged below 50% of their useable capacity (i.e. a 200 Ah lead-acid battery should only be drained down to 100 Ah, to avoid damaging it).
While a typical lead-acid battery generally lasts 2-6 years (depending on how it’s used and maintained, the brand, etc.), lithium-ion batteries are often guaranteed to last 10 years or longer (while retaining at least 80% of their original capacity).
While flooded lead-acid batteries can corrode and leak, LiFePO4 batteries aren’t susceptible to corrosion or leaking.
A typical lead-acid battery can weigh as much as 70 pounds (higher-quality deep-cycle lead-acid batteries have more lead in their plates, making them heavier), while a lithium-ion battery of similar capacity can weigh half as much (at roughly 30 pounds).
All types of lead-acid batteries can be damaged by repeated, long-term partial recharging. It can reduce the battery lifespan because of sulphation (where the sulfur from the battery acid stays in combination with the lead on the plates). But this isn’t an issue with lithium batteries, making them particularly great for use with solar (where you may not reach 100% fully charged every day).
These are among the top reasons why many RVers decide to switch to lithium batteries. But, as with everything in life, it’s not ALL roses… there ARE disadvantages to switching to lithium.
Three main disadvantages are typically noted where lithium-ion batteries are concerned. Let’s summarize and address those briefly before moving on to what else you need to know about switching your RV to lithium:
The upfront cost of LiFePO4 batteries has long been considered a disadvantage of switching. However, the truth is that while lithium batteries cost more to buy at the outset, they tend to be well worth that initial investment because they don’t need to be replaced as frequently as other types of batteries. Between their overall longer lifespan and their greater tolerance of incomplete charging cycles, they’ll last much longer than the lead-acid batteries you’re replacing.
The temperature sensitivity of lithium batteries has long been seen as a negative for RV use because a lithium battery can be damaged when it’s charged while the battery temperature is at or below freezing. This has meant that they can’t be stored in a cold area, nor have they been considered the best choice for cold-weather camping unless they’re located in a heated space.
However, as we noted in our post discussing misconceptions about lithium RV batteries, battery manufacturers have addressed this issue in a couple of different ways. Most significantly, virtually all lithium RV batteries use a Battery Management System (BMS) that monitors the battery’s internal temperature. This ensures that charging current won’t be allowed to flow into the battery when it would cause damage (for more on all functions of a BMS, see our post “What Is the Function of a Battery Management System?“).
But, because lithium batteries don’t outgas when operating (like flooded lead-acid batteries do), they can be installed inside your RV’s living space to keep them warm. This also keeps them out of sight… making sure no one decides to walk off with your (expensive) new lithium batteries.
Lastly, keep in mind that the cold temperature issue only affects CHARGING the battery(ies). Most popular brands of lithium-ion batteries for RV use can be discharged at temperatures well below where you’d be comfortable in your RV (for example, Battle Born Batteries list an operating temperature range (for charging/discharging) of – 4°F to 135°F (-20°C to 57.2°C) which is pretty broad). So if outside temperatures rise above freezing during the day, the batteries can recharge after warming up.
Finally, lithium batteries require a different charging profile than flooded lead-acid batteries. This means that your existing charging components (converter/charger, inverter/charger, and/or solar charge controllers) may not work properly with lithium batteries.
While many lithium batteries are “drop-in” sized (meaning they have the same, or similar, dimensions as standard lead-acid batteries), upgrading to lithium is rarely that easy. There are several components in your RV’s electrical system that may need to be modified or replaced so that they’re compatible with a lithium battery bank. These include:
Older RVs aren’t likely to have a converter/charger compatible with lithium batteries. In the best case, it won’t charge them properly, but in the worst case, it could seriously damage them.
Newer RVs are more likely to have a converter/charger that simply requires a setting change. This is sometimes as simple as flipping a switch on the converter/charger itself… but that switch is sometimes hidden somewhere inside the unit and may not be easily accessible.
This Progressive Dynamics 60-Amp Inteli-Power Converter/Charger, for example, will work well with a lithium-ion battery bank:
For more information, see our posts on RV power converters and RV converters vs battery chargers.
The same is true of your RV’s inverter/charger. Older RVs could require completely replacing the inverter/charger, while newer rigs may just need a setting change. This would most likely involve accessing a monitor/control panel and changing the battery type (or charge parameters) there. To become more familiar with the function of an inverter/charger, please see our post entitled, “What Is an RV Inverter?”
This Victron Energy MultiPlus 3000VA 12-Volt Pure Sine Wave Inverter/Charger, also available here from Battle Born Batteries is a great example of an inverter/charger that will work well with your RV’s new lithium batteries:
Or you could consider this popular model from Xantrex:
Note: The Victron offers the advantage of being a hybrid inverter (meaning it can augment a lower-amperage shore connection, temporarily pulling power from the battery bank to make up the difference… like when running your A/C when moochdocking on a 15-amp connection), while the Xantrex inverter has a higher & longer surge rating to handle power demands like the startup surge required by your air conditioner.
Once again, an older solar charge controller will need to be replaced, while a newer one may only require a settings change. If you need to replace your solar charge controller, be sure to see our post entitled “How Do You Size a Solar Charge Controller?” to be sure you get one that’s compatible with your solar array.
When upgrading to lithium batteries you may also need to consider the DC-to-DC charging from your towing vehicle or the alternator charging (using a BiRD, a “Bi-directional Relay Delay system, or an Echo Charger) from your motorhome’s engine.
Unless you’re towing your RV with an electric vehicle, it likely has a lead-acid battery, so its charging system (the vehicle’s alternator) is optimized for charging batteries with a lead-acid chemistry. As a result, if the umbilical wiring between the towing vehicle and the RV (trailer, fifth-wheel, or truck camper) is connected to allow 12V power from the towing vehicle to feed the camper’s battery(ies), you’re likely to drain your lithium RV batteries instead of charging them. Here’s why:
Lithium batteries “rest” at a higher voltage than a lead-acid battery does, so your towing vehicle’s alternator may not kick in, allowing the lithium battery to power the loads of the truck, draining it while it’s being towed. To prevent this, you’ll need to do one of the following:
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